Monday 25 July 2016

Teddy at Thorshaven, a giant fishing boat up the slipway behind and above her threatening her with annihilation ! Only place we could tie up in this crowded harbour.





Photo by Jim




Assessing the trip.

On arriving at the Faroe, with deep unease I was obliged to review our ability to sail to Jan Mayen & Greenland.

Adolf was seasick  a 3rd time. The first two were prostrating with each episode lasting 2 days til we got to land, and recovery was not quick. The last time he was a good bit better. His seasickness could not have been foreseen - it has never before happened to him. However, this pattern of debilitating seasickness destroys the reliability of his contribution as crew.
I found Rene to have little understanding of the sea.  His contribution is essentially as a steerer.
Neither Jan Mayen nor East Greenland have docks. Landing is exclusively by dinghy. These regions are subject to fierce squalls. The dinghy is also useful for other things, ie laying out a kedge anchor, which may be invaluable in emergency situations. I have observed all crew rowing, and have no confidence in any of them in squally situations. I really would like to have at least a 2nd person who can row with skill and power.
Travel through ice is a further complication. Gales in the Denmark Strait are common, and one must be expected on each transit of the strait. The demands on Jim & me in a 24 or 48 hour gale in ice are unacceptably high.
In short, I was obliged to come to the conclusion that this crew is unfit for JML & East Greenland, and that we cannot go there.

I have discussed all this with the crew.

The plan now must be circumscribed by what I feel we as a group are able to do comfortably in my view.

We will do Iceland, most likely go around it. Many things of interest en route.
With lots of time ahead, we may also return via the Outer Hebrides.

The original plan remains a possibility, but that is perhaps wistful thinking. If between here & Grimsey Island, north Iceland (and an excellent jumping off point for Scoresbysund), the performance of the crew gives me a lot more confidence, I will reconsider.

It has taken me a week to understand this, to make peace with it, and to carry on with this new perspective.

I hope to get to east or northeast Iceland from here. The nearest point is 220 NM. The forecast is for contrary, mostly moderate winds for the next week, so it could be all beating upwind.


Sunday 24 July 2016




Sea Rocket, excellent edible.

At harbor, Sandur, Sandoy Island. Old fishing boat in front of Teddy went from Denmark to Greenland, went bust, now is slowly rotting as she lies.

At Sandur







We had many coffees & beers here.






Photos by Jim











Photos by Rene, on Suderoy Island, Faroe.

Thursday 21 July 2016

By the fish processing station, Vagur Suderoy.



Head of the fjord. Typically a river running down to the fjord head, very fertile land here.

At Tuthroyri, Suderoy.

Cappucino, brownie & the news.

One of many cod we caught. At a pub all afternoon - no one here has ever seen a red cod. Beautiful creature.

Photos by Jim.

Tuesday 19 July 2016

Heavy fog & drizzle today. Staying put.

Pics at Vagur, the island of Suderoy, Faroe.






Built 1884, in the UK. Many ships like these worked these seas a century ago.

Fog & drizzle last night. Thicker now.

Photos by Jim.

Monday 18 July 2016

Lake, mainland Orkney. Lots of standing stones & settlements here from 3000 BC.
Ring of Brognar, mainland Orkney
Stones of Staneness, mainland Orkney

Fertile grasslands




Photos by Jim
Brian and Babs, at Inishkea North

Babs and Nick

Tea with Brian

Babs unhappy at being shut out


Photos by Jim
This at a restaurant with WIFI at the village Vagur, at the island Suderoy, the southernmost of the Faroe.
We left the Orkneys enthusiastically with a ESE fresh breeze, bound for here. I did not check the weather forecast that morning - had looked the previous day & nothing much showed up. The ESE gradually veered to the S then SW, then W, building up over the night to F 8. Unpleasant seeing the growing & breaking seas at night, often at odds, always desirable to avoid this sort of thing. It is a matter of shutting down, securing everything, minimizing all effort & movement. For the first time I secured everything & moved crew to leewards, in case of a knockdown. Never came close though.
After the gale we ended up 60 mi E of the Faroes, and made our way in. Today a feast of washing & tidying up - showers, laundry, the entire boat interior. Rain & a low overcast, unattractive, so doubt we will be out much today.
There are magnificent boats here straight out of the Viking times. Sizes ranging from rowboats to a 40 footer that takes 20 rowers. Many boat houses. I suspect there are 30-50 Viking boats kept here. The lines & workmanship are impeccable, the pride of ownership evident, and rightly so with these magnificent creations.

By the way, the stern gland was replaced at Kirkwall (Orkney) within 24 hours of meeting the mechanic.

Thursday 14 July 2016

Jim

Rene & Nick

Adolf

Soay lamb

Skua chick. Plump butterball but we didn't have the heart to make soup out of him

Nesting fulmar

Boreray gannets

Gannets

Intimate moment. Box of wine on the sink

Photos by Rene

Wednesday 13 July 2016


Early Christian site. Carving of face on stone slab ca 900 AD
North shore, Iniskea North

                       Iniskea North. Achill & achill Head to the south.


                                                     Iniskea North

Photos by Jim

Tuesday 12 July 2016

Boreray, Stac Lee in distance


St Kilda
                                               
                                                        St Kilda




                                    Arctic roseroot, St Kilda (Rene)



Stac an Armin, near Boreray, St Kilda

Photos by Jim